Every big wave rider can tell you of his narrow escapes from death. - Bob Pike

I am a fanatic for big waves. I just can’t resist them and the urge to paddle out and try to ride the biggest waves of all is the most compelling thing in my life, the most moving challenge I know.

I don’t like to compete and I don’t think any of the top riders do. It takes too much of the pleasure out of the sport and creates too many jealousies. Competitions are all against the spirit of surf-riding, which is supposed to be a communion with nature rather than a hectic chase for points.

You never get enough big surf to tire of it. When the small surf is running, I go skindiving.