Yet despite boasting a stable, grass-roots democracy, the country has - Sada Mire

Beautiful Somali buildings are rising up in a former war zone. It gives me hope.

I try not to travel with armed people - I don't like weapons after my war experience. But many of the people who work with me are former soldiers who used to drive tanks. They are walking GPSs. They cope very well both on the road and with people.

First of all, I make sure I have a good driver-mechanic. That's the most important thing in the desert. I always have simple archaeological equipment ready for research in the trunk: recording equipment, chargers.