[J]ust being on the bridge when that storm came along... and watching those waves roll towards the ship and... rear up in front of us. It wasn't everyone's favorite thing, but I felt privileged to be there.

I enjoyed my exhaustion, though; I liked overdoing things

I could either watch it happen, or be part of it.

Don't condemn me, remember rather that sometimes I, too, can reach the bursting point.

Just as I was about to grab the rope ladder, a huge swell lifted the dinghy nearly to La Reunion’s deck level, and at least a dozen smiling French fishermen pulled me aboard.