Although the Australian beaches I’ve listed all throw up some really big waves, you have to go to Hawaii to sample the biggest available in the world. - Bob Pike

Every big wave rider can tell you of his narrow escapes from death.

I don’t like to compete and I don’t think any of the top riders do. It takes too much of the pleasure out of the sport and creates too many jealousies. Competitions are all against the spirit of surf-riding, which is supposed to be a communion with nature rather than a hectic chase for points.

Though it eats up my savings, I’ve just got to ride the biggest waves I can find in this world. The big waves may scare me, but with my new big gun boards, I fancy I can ride a few of them.