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" "B is for Bachelors
... and the wonderful dinners they pull out of their cupboards with such dining aplomb and kitchen chaos.
Their approach to gastronomy is basically sexual, since few of them under seventy-nine will bother to produce a good meal unless it is for a pretty woman.
(née Mary Frances Kennedy, published primarily as M. F. K. Fisher, but also as Mary Frances Parrish, Victoria Bern, and Victoria Berne; July 3, 1908 – June 22, 1992) was a prolific American author of books on food and cooking combined with autobiographical memoirs. She also wrote essays, short stories, screenplays, travelogues, and three novels. She translated ’s Physiologie du goût and contributed to , , and . From 1942 to 1944 she worked for and was a gagwriter for Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, and Dorothy Lamour.
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Most of us, unhappily, shudder and ache and rumble as secretly as possible, seeming to feel disgrace in what is but one of the common phenomena of age: the general slowing of all physical processes. For years we hide or ignore our bodily protests and hasten our own dyspeptic doom by trying to eat and drink as we did when we were twenty.
When we are past fifty, especially if we have kept up this pathetic pose of youth-at-table, we begin to grow fat. It is then that the blindest of us should beware. Unfortunately, however, we are too used to seeing other people turn heavy in their fifties: we accept paunches and s as a necessary part of growing old.
Instead, we should realize this final protest of an overstuffed system, and ease our body's last years by lightening its burden. We should eat sparingly.
We lived for almost three years in , which the s called without any quibble and with only half-hearted contradictions "the gastronomic capital of the world." ...
... We ate s of ten years old under their tight crusts of mildewed butter. We tied napkins under our chins and splashed in great odorous bowls of Écrevisses à la . We addled our palates with s hung so long they fell from their hooks, to be roasted then on cushions of toast softened with the paste of their rotted innards and fine brandy. In village kitchens we ate hot with and snippets of salt pork in it.