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" "So after the calcium has been part of the cliffs it can crumble down... It goes back into the ocean and this cycle starts all over again.
is a British physicist and oceanographer and television presenter. She is an associate professor in the department of mechanical engineering at . She was previously at the Institute for Sound and Vibration Research at the .
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[W]e have all these dry numbers and significant wave height is one of them... [W]atching what it really means for a significant wave height to be 10 meters and thinking about how small that is compared to the depth of the ocean... It's like... having a swimming pool and... blowing tiny ripples across the top. ...Being in that situation was... fascinating and fun... I wouldn't want to do it every day, but it was... a special experience.